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And Beyond Tokyo

Chika Kuroiwa

Posted 2019-01-192019-01-19 chika K

Chika Kuroiwa

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⟵Chika Kuroiwa

Recent posts Guide blog

  • Where to see Cherry Blossoms this year under COVID-19?

    Hello, it’s cherry blossoms seasons again under COVID-19.  Do you remember last year when Governor Koike called for refraining from cherry-blossom viewing, saying, “Please refrain from cherry-blossom viewing this year. The cherry blossoms will bloom again next year.” To our surprise not much progress yet in terms of the fight against COVID-19. A rope was stretched in Ueno Park so that people cannot sit and picnic under the cherry blossoms. As documents and history have proven, the Japanese have loved cherry blossoms for over 1000 years by going out with their lunch boxes and dancing under the flowers. That DNA has been in crisis for the last two years. All right, even if we cannot picnic or drink beer under the cherry blossoms, we still can go and view them. Here is a list of our recommendations. No. 1 Chidori-gafuchi Ryokudo About 260 cherry trees bloom on both sides of the moat, and it is so beautiful when reflected on the surface of the water. The light up is exceptional. Unfortunately, it seems that night illumination and night boats will be canceled this year, but daytime boats is still available with reservation. The boat on the petals at the end of cherry blossoms season is magnificent! Now the local government offer, “live camera of the moat”. Check the flowers and crowds with this before going out. Stay safe! https://youtu.be/yIoPisyFE64 No. 2 Sumida River, Asakusa Along the Sumida River, over 600 cherry blossoms are to bloom on the banks of the river, making it one of the “100 Best Cherry Blossom Spots in Japan”. It is also famous that Yoshimune Tokugawa, the eighth shogun, planted cherry blossoms on the embankment so that it would strengthened by many cherry blossoms viewing visitors stomping on it. Our recommendation is to go down the Sumida River to Hamarikyu Gardens by water bus. Book your seats in advance. *Hamarikyu Garden will be closed until the further notice according to the latest announcement. (updated March 22, 2021) 3 / 20-4 / 7 is a special cherry blossom viewing schedule, so make a reservation in advance and enjoy a smooth visit. https://www.suijobus.co.jp/event_cru/sumida_river_route/#detail Hamarikyu Garden No. 3 Shinjuku Gyoen There are 1000 cherry trees in the large park, and there are many types, so even if Yoshino cherry trees are scattered, you can enjoy other types of cherry blossoms for a while. The advanced booking is required during the cherry blossoms period (2021/3/23-4/25)It is only in Japanese, ask us for help if necessary. We will be happy to support you. https://peraichi.com/landing_pages/view/ll5gi Shinjuku gyoenShinjuku gyoen In Tokyo, you can find cherry blossoms tress everywhere, so we do not worry too much that you miss cherry blossoms. Besides spots mentioned above, a few more places that we like are; Cemeteries: Metropolitan Government Cemeteries are free to enter 24 hours a day. It is nice to take a walk in Aoyama Cemetery, Somei Cemetery, Yanaka Cemetery, which are easy to access. The Tokyo National Museum (Tohaku) is another favorite of ours. At this time of year, there is an annual “Cherry Blossom Viewing at the Museum (3 / 16-4 / 11)” project, and it is interesting to see cherry blossoms, picture scrolls, lacquer work, and sword patterns related to cherry blossom viewing. It feels good to see the cherry blossom viewing party drawn on the picture scrolls of the Heian period, and to take a walk in the normally closed garden area. Advance reservations are required online this year, so make a reservation before you go out. https://www.tnm.jp/modules/r_free_page/index.php?id=2028 There are 800 cherry trees in Ueno Park, so it’s a good idea to walk along the way to Tohaku. TohakuTohaku GardenYanaka cemetery We hope that next year there will be a grand cherry blossom viewing. Stay Safe! See you then in Tokyo!

  • A First Visit to Kengo Kuma’s Long Awaited Kadokawa Musashino Museum!

    The Museum “emerges” as a giant rock from the ground On August 1st, Kengo Kuma’s latest project in the Greater Tokyo area partially opened to visitors! Kadokawa Musashino Museum is part of a larger complex called Tokorozawa Sakura Town, designed by the Kengo’s firm KKAA. While most of the complex is not yet open, the Museum is allowing visitors to book tickets in advance and visit in their designated time slots. You can book your online ticket here! I went on a weekday afternoon, and the journey from central Tokyo took me a little over an hour. The station I got off is Higashi-Tokorozawa Station, using the Musashino line. From there, it was a scorching hot 12 minute walk to the museum area. I arrived at the museum a few minutes before my time slot. They let me in to wait in the socially-distanced line inside. They make sure to check your temperature and disinfect your hands before entering the building. Right now, there are only two parts of the building open on the 1st floor (which is below the level you enter, so it goes partially underground). The first is Kengo Kuma exhibition, which centers the narrative around this particular museum and his other buildings around Tokyo. On the other side of the floor is the manga room: two levels filled with manga that you can read and borrow. Kengo Kuma Exhibition Beautiful models on display A great overview of the numerous Kuma projects around Tokyo You can expect to spend 30mins ~ 1 hour in this exhibition. There are some short interview videos you can watch, but I would recommend watching a Nico-video of Kengo Kuma explaining the building and exhibition himself through a live video: https://live2.nicovideo.jp/watch/lv327121977 The second floor, the level you enter, has a space for a museum shop that hasn’t opened yet, and a small cafe corner. There aren’t table seats, instead they are all benches. There are plenty of space to sit in the surrounding plaza. The infinity pool in front of the museum: small children were playing in the water On the other side of the infinity pool is the Tokorozawa Sakura Town building, which hasn’t opened yet. There is a food truck in the plaza, and a large auditorium. Without shops or people, it seems desolate To the west of the museum is a beautifully modern shrine. All the details are designed, even the hand-purifying water fountain (it’s COVID-19 friendly!). Unline Kuma’s other shrine in Kagurazaka “Akane Shrine”, the material he uses is stone and metal, although the interior is luxuriously finished with wood. With not much yet open in this complex, I feel like it’s best to wait a while to visit, especially since it is quite far from central Tokyo (and far from the station once you get to Higashi-Tokorozawa). There’s a small TeamLab installation in the adjacent forest. Perhaps I will update this post with further information when more is available.

  • Yakushima: The Island of Mononoke

    Forest in hiking trail ‘Shiratani Unsuikyo’ We celebrated the end of the decade in Yakushima, an island south of Kagoshima, covered with luscious cedar forests and moss covered granite rocks. It’s an island that seems right out of a Studio Ghibli film with monkeys spilling out onto the roads, deer running through hiking trails and trees older than 3000 years old. In fact, director Miyao Hayazaki of Ghibli got a great deal of inspiration from the forests of Yakushima in his films, especially in Princess Mononoke. In this post, I’m going to walk you through our experience in Yakushima from what we ate, what we saw, where we slept and what we loved! Yakushima is one of a series of volcanic islands at the edge of the Philippine plate boundary. From Tokyo, we took a flight to Kagoshima airport from Haneda, then from Kagoshima to Yakushima’s small local airport. I emphasize small. There’s a tiny cafeteria, one check-in counter, one bathroom outside the gate (so make sure to finish your business before you go through security). Stay Seaside Hotel shuttle service picked us up from the airport and took us to our hotel. It’s not the Four Seasons, but we enjoyed our stay there. There are two ‘classes’ to the hotel: the new wing has nicer rooms, views of the ocean and sleep wear. We stayed in the older wing in a traditional tatami mat room. What was best was the food: the breakfast buffet had a variety of choices, including sashimi and cod-roe, as well as local specialties. Dinner was a different course menu every night and it was quite delicious. There is a public bath in the lower level to help you wind down after a long day hiking or sightseeing. The hotel rents out hiking goods, from shoes to backpack covers, and you can even do your laundry in the basement laundromat. View from our hotel room Food We took all of our breakfast and dinner at the hotel, but for our first lunch we went to Katagiri-san. Yakushima is known for Tobiuo, flying fish. Katagiri-san serves a delicious tobiuo dish served with rice and tea soup, which you mix in with other condiments after you enjoy it with just rice. The oden there was very good as well. For another lunch, we went to Sankara Hotel and Spa, a luxury villa-style resort. They have a simple lunch course menu for around 2400 yen. The food was decent, although to be worth 2400 yen you will just have to think about how you are paying for the great service (which really is great – valet parking, smiles on the staff, mochi making New Year’s activity). The view from the hotel is great and for travellers willing to spare quite a bit more for their accomodation, I would recommend this hotel. For dinner, we had the pre-ordered course menu at Seaside Hotel. We really enjoyed their food, which ranged from sashimi to tempura to hot pot. It was very filling, delicious, and varied every night. Trekking On the second day, we went on a guided tour to hike the Shiratani Unsuikyo trail, around 5 hour round trip but took us 6 with lunch and explanations in the middle. This trail is famous for the moss-covered forest and giant cedar trees, especially those that were cut down during the Edo period and have new interesting growth on top, or those that formed over a dead cedar that is now gone, leaving a ‘cave’.

  • Kagari- a gem in the back alley of Ginza

    Kagari 篝 is a not-so-hidden gem, found in one of the narrow alleys behind the main street of Ginza. They specialize in Chicken Paitan Ramen (鶏白湯), a type of ramen with chicken-based broth. The entrance looks fancy, just like a traditional Japanese restaurant! There is a line outside, so if you go during busy hours, you may need to wait a while (there is no roof). We went at around 11:30 on a weekday, and luckily, there was no line. Once inside, you order and wait. The inside is just as fancy, so enjoy the wooden atmosphere. The service is fast and efficient, as a ramen shop should be. Just when your stomach starts growling, your bowl is served… Ahh.. perfect. The broth is rich in flavor, it’s almost as thick as a potage soup. The noodles twine well with the soup. The colorful vegetables are a plus; who knew tomatoes are good as toppings for ramen? Kagari offers few types of paitan ramen, my recommendation would be the one with truffles. You can smell the truffle, even before taking your first sip. There are many chicken paitan ramen stores around Tokyo, but Kagari is obviously among the top competitors. It is a must eat, if you’re around Ginza!!

  • Cupnoodles Museum- a must visit for Nisshin fans

    Cupnoodles (it’s 1 word and copyrighted, did you know that?). The one and only, the world famous instant delicacy in a styrofoam cup. Are you a big fan? Because I sure am. You can guess my excitement when we visited the Cupnoodles Museum in Yokohama last week. Located in Minatomirai, it is one of the key features of the Yokohama bay area. Entry is 500 yen, no need to reserve. However, if you’re looking to make your own Cupnoodles, you MUST book online ahead of your visit. EntranceRamen art Once you enter, you will find yourself surrounded by Cupnoodles and instant ramen throughout the years, from the very first instant Chicken Ramen. This room is a perk for hard core Nisshin fans. There is also a room for a short video clip about Nisshin and its founder Ando Momofuku. Ramen throughout the yearsRamen around the worldAndo Momofuku, the founder Once you’re done roaming around the exhibition, it’s time to make your own cup noodles. Head to the 3rd floor, and line up to get your cup. Most of the time, this museum is crowded. You MUST reserve a time slot in advance, and go to the My Cupnoodle Factory (where you make your own Cupnoodles) in that designated time. It’s 300 yen to make your own Cupnoodles; you’re only allowed one cup per each guest. After receiving a cup, it’s time to decorate! Use the markers provided to design your very own Cupnoodles. Once you’re done, you need to head over and decide the flavor and ingredients. You first need to choose your soup from 4 flavors: shoyu (soy sauce), seafood, curry and chili tomato. Then, you get to choose 4 ingredients from the following 12: Hiyoko-chan fish cake, garlic chips, green bean, cheese, crab flavored fish cake, kimchi, shrimp, corn, Nazo niku (minced pork), green onions, egg, and a limited seasonal ingredient. My Cupnoodles FactoryChoose your ingredients..from these 12Time to close it up!Sealing the cup You can take your My Cupnoodles home safely, since they give you an inflatable bag that’ll act as a cushion. The whole process takes about 30~40 mins. End product! Paying my respect to Shibanban, a Shiba dog I’m currently obsessed with. There’s a food court that serves noodles from many parts of Asia on the 4th floor. They’re all very small portions, so you can try them out as snacks, or just hang out and relax after all the decorating you did. The view from the terrace is great, you get a perfect view of the Yokohama bay. Food courtNoodles from ChinaNoodles from South KoreaView from the 4th floor terrace There’s a gift shop on the 1st floor, where you’ll find many Cupnoodles related souvenirs. Go all out on your ramen obsession. Overall, I’d say 2 hours at this museum is enough. There is also a Chicken ramen factory, where you can make Chicken ramen from scratch. However, that workshop takes time, and it’s always fully booked. My suggestion would be to just book the My Cupnoodles Factory along with your entrance ticket, which they sell on Lawson Ticket as a set deal.

  • Summer Festivals in Tokyo 2019

    It is festival season! Primarily festivals are associated more with Shinto, Japanese native religion, but in summer we have Obon that is the main summer festival for Buddhism and local community. Check it out almost every weekend you encounter some kind of summer festival all through Japan. Here are main festivals in Tokyo, but there are more locals ones near you for sure. Check it out! July 9 Tuesday, 10 Wednesday 2019, Senso ji Temple in Asakusa Hozuki ichi This festival has been carried from 18th century, wishing for good health and fortune with Hozuki, plant with red seed flower market. https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/things-to-do/mitama-matsuri-1 July 13 Saturday to 16 Tuesday 2019  Yasukuni shrine in Kudanshita Mitama Matsuri 2019 Big lanterns, Bon dances ,and food stalls. Join bon dances in Yukata. https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/things-to-do/mitama-matsuri-1 July 24 Wednesday to 27 Saturday 2019 Kagurazaka Kagurazaka Matsuri Bon dances, Hozuki ichi flower market. Bring your own Yukata and have them dress you up for free! https://kagurazaka.fun/kagurazaka-matsuri-2019 to be continued

  • Fireworks Festivals in Tokyo 2019

    Guess how many firework festivals will be held in Greater Tokyo! Almost every weekend you can see fireworks displays in the air. Plan your summer! July 13 Saturday, 14 Sunday      Yokohama Yokohama Sparking Twilight Yokohama 3,000 fireworks to be launched, 630,000 people expected http://www.yokohamajapan.com/events/… July 20 Saturday,    Arakawa river ( Nishiarai bridge of Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line) , Tokyo Adachi no Hanabi with Ninjya 13,000 fireworks to be launched, 700,0000 people expected http://adachikanko.net/event/… July 23 Tuesday  Edogawa River, Katsushika, Tokyo Katsushika noryo Hanabi Taikai 13,000 fireworks to be launched, 770,000 people expected http://www.city.katsushika.lg.jp/tourism/… July 27 Saturday   Sumida River, Sumida, Tokyo Sumida River Fireworks Festival 20,000 Fireworks to be launched, 950,000 people expected https://www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com/ August 3 Saturday, Edogawa River, Edogawa City, Tokyo Exciting Hanabi 2019 14,000 fireworks to be launched, 900,000 people expected https://hanabi.walkerplus.com/detail/… August 3 Saturday, Arakawa River, Itabashi City, Tokyo Itabashi/Todabashi Hanabi Taikai 12,000 fireworks to be launched, 520,000 people expected http://itabashihanabi.jp/ August 10 Saturday, Meiji Jingu Gaien, Tokyo Meiji Jingu Gaien Hanabi Taikai 10,000 fireworks with music, 1 million people expected http://www.jinguhanabi.com/ Some of these festival sell tickets to view fireworks in premium locations. Please ask us for details! (last updated on July 10th)

  • A short trip to Atami

    Atami is a city in Shizuoka prefecture, just 2 hour-drive away from Tokyo, known for its onsen (hot springs) and fresh seafood. The Tokaido bullet train has a stop at Atami, which makes it a great getaway spot for long weekends. Even though Atami is a tourist favorite, both for Japanese and foreigners, there aren’t too many thing to do, beside going to onsen. We took a trip there just last month, so we’ll share some of the things we did/ate, to help you make YOUR trip more memorable. 1. Kiunkaku 起雲閣 Kiunkaku is a great piece of modern Japanese architecture, with a beautiful garden. Built in 1919, it was once owned by individuals, but Atami city bought it in 2000, and since then has become one of Atami’s main tourist spots. Entry fee: 510 JPY/adult Business hours: 9am to 5pm (last entry at 4:30pm), closed on Wednesdays. 2. Akao Herb and Rose Garden アカオハーブアンドローズガーデン Akao Herb and Rose Garden is a facility made up of 12 gardens of roses and herbs. This is a “hot” spot right now, due to the Instagram-worthy view. Coeda house, located at the very top of the hill, is built by the none other than Kengo Kuma. One more upside: it’s a dog friendly place! Our dog enjoyed the walk in the garden (though it was way too hot). Entry fee: 1000 JPY/person, free parking Business hours: 9am to 5pm 3. Gomi Hacchin 五味八珍 What is Shizuoka known for? Great seafood? Of course. But did you know there’s a type of dumplings called Hamamatsu Gyoza? They are basically potstickers, but served with boiled bean sprouts in the middle. It’d be a waste to oversee this delicious speciality, so make sure you stop by when you get to Atami station. Cost: ~1000JPY Business hours: 11am~9:30pm (last order 9pm) 4. Mishima Skywalk 三島スカイウォーク Atami is an onsen town, so if you get bored of soaking in a hot spring, hop on a car and drive out to Mishima Skywalk. You will reach Japan’s longest suspended bridge, just by driving 30 mins from Atami. There are many rental car shops near Atami station, so make sure to bring your international driver’s license. (We can also help you book a rental car, email us (info@andbeyondtokyo.com) for more info.) I should note, this is another dog friendly facility! Entry fee: 1000 JPY Business hours: 9am to 5pm (may be closed depending on the weather conditions) 5. Ashinoko Skyline 芦ノ湖スカイライン If you rented a car for Mishima Skywalk, why not go for a drive along one of the most beautiful skylines in Eastern Japan? Ashinoko Skyline is a tolled road, but you get to see Mt. Fuji if you’re lucky! You also get to see Lake Ashi, the famous lake of Hakone. Get the most use out of your rented car. Fee: 620 JPY 6. Gotemba Premium Outlets 御殿場アウトレット Driving along Ashinoko Skyline, you might find yourself further away from Atami than you realized. If so, just extend your drive a little bit further to Gotemba Outlet. Here, you can enjoy the biggest outlet mall of Japan. Bonus tip: if you rent a car, it will not cost you extra to return it to a different store within the same prefecture. Gotemba is in Shizuoka as well, so even if you rent a car in Atami, you can still return it here and pay no extra charge. If you’re lucky, you get to see the grand old Mt. Fuji.  

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